Kutaisi, Georgia

Here we explore the fairytale city of Kutaisi, Georgia, one of the oldest cities in the country and the cultural heart of western Georgia. Set along the Rioni River, Kutaisi is known for its historic landmarks, ancient monasteries, traditional Georgian restaurants, and warm local atmosphere, making it a captivating destination for travelers seeking history, culture, and authentic Georgian charm.

TRAVEL BLOG

Samantha

1/23/202611 min read

a tower and stone wall at Bagrati cathedral in Kutaisi georgia

How to make the most of your time in Kutaisi, Georgia

We had the privilege of visiting Kutaisi twice. First during our hike of the Transcaucasian Trail for one night and again with Don's parents for three nights. Kutaisi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It was the political heart of the ancient Colchis Kingdom (also home to the fabled Golden Fleece in Greek mythology) and later a center of Georgian power. The city itself feels intimate rather than grand, known for its historic landmarks, charming streets and rich cultural heritage. A place where Soviet era apartments sit beside older wooden houses with carved balconies. The city is full of small bakeries, cafes and family run restaurants where hospitality spares no expense. The night life is calm, instead of going clubbing people stroll along the river and through the city's parks. It's truly is a special place, and one that has to be experienced to fully comprehend.

Fisthand experiences with helpful tips and links to get you where you want to be!

Traditional Georgian restaurants in Kutaisi

The restaurants in Kutaisi are among some of my favorites in Georgia. I think we all agreed we never had a bad meal and the value of your money goes so far. I think the most that was spent for four people was around 220 Gel ($80 USD) and that included several non alcoholic drinks, appetizers and four entrees.

Gala: I loved this restaurant's aesthetic and vibe. It was down to earth and artsy all in one. The menu was extensive with many Georgian classics. Here I enjoyed their chakapuli with beef, a delicious Georgian stew. The flavors were amazing, it's packed with fragrant herbs and tender meat. It's the type of soup that just makes you feel good. Gail (Don's Mom) had mushroom soup that was equally as delicious with a homey broth and large slices of fresh mushrooms. Don enjoyed their kuchmachi which is a traditional Georgian dish of chicken liver, hearts and gizzards in walnut sauce topped with pomegranate seeds. We both love organ meat so we think it is delicious and a must try! Greg (Don's Dad) had the shkmeruli which is fried chicken in a garlic sauce. This dish was a favorite on our hike of the Transcaucasian Trail because one, it's delicious, and two, it’s a lot of chicken! The chicken is fried, then cooked on low heat in a garlic butter sauce. I recommend ordering some extra bread so you can soak up every drop of the rich, garlicky goodness. We also found there are numerous variations of this recipe throughout the country! The total for this meal including water, bread and one beer was 116.50 GEL ($42.76 USD)

Chakapuli with beef at Gala in Kutaisi Georgia

Mushroom soup

Chakapuli with beef

A wall with clay pots and a table with clay pots and flowers at Gala in Kutaisi Georgia

Tea House Foe-Foe ფოე-ფოე: An amazing tea house with beautiful art and great ambience. The cafe prominently features many works by a Georgian artist, Petre Otskheli, who was tragically executed during Joseph Stalin's Great Purge at the age of 30, so remember to take a moment to enjoy his sketches. We each chose our own pot of tea consisting of: French Rose, Milk Oolong, Ginger and Georgian Green. Each pot was delicious and flavorful to the last drop, never getting bitter. We also split an Imeruli khachapuri , a flat bread made from yeast-leavened bread stuffed with Imeruli cheese. It's a definite must for cheese lovers! For all this it was 70.40 GEL ($25.84 USD)

family enjoying tea and khachapuri at Tea House Foe-Foe in Kutaisi Georgia

the interior of Tea House Foe-Foe in Kutiasi Georgia

Doli: Unfortunately when we visited here the gas was out on the entire street vastly limiting what they had available. Despite this we decided to stay and get an appetizer and a pot of tea. We ordered their Imeruli Gobi to share, this included four types of pkhali, (chopped vegetables with ground walnuts and spices) pumpkin, beet, mushroom and eggplant as well as sulguni & imeruli cheese, nadughi (cheese with mint) and a tomato salad with walnut paste. Because the gas was out they were unable to make the mchadi (corn bread) but provided us with fresh bread. Everything was so fresh and flavorful it was easy to see why this is a favorite restaurant in Kutaisi. I hope we can return one day to try the rest of their menu. The cost for a pot of tea with Imeruli Gobi and extra bread was 90.50 GEL ($33.88 USD)

Imeruli Gobi

Maisis Ezo მაისის ეზო: This was my favorite restaurant in Kutaisi. The restaurant is located in an historic building and has been decorated and laid out in the most charming way. The staff was so welcoming and helpful you can't help but feel like family. You can dine outside or in, but I highly recommend eating inside to enjoy the beautiful and tastefully restored rooms. For appetizers we all shared a cucumber and tomato salad with walnuts, mutsha-mutsha (beans with kmazula, jonjoli and Imeretian adjka, a must try!) and mushroom stuffed with sulguni. For our entrees Don and his dad both ordered satsivi with village chicken and pomegranate salsa which is a rich and flavorful dish of chicken in a spiced walnut sauce topped with pomegranate seeds. Both Don and his dad loved this dish. Gail had the shqmeruli with chicken and we all agreed it was the best shqmeruli we had. It was rich and flavorful without being too heavy. I ordered the chashushuli, which is a traditional beef and tomato stew. The meat was very tender and the broth was rich. The beef is fried first, then onions, garlic, peppers, herbs and seasoning are added (there are regional variations throughout Georgia). It is then cooked on low heat until it becomes a savory and aromatic stew that is one of my favorites Georgian dishes, absolute perfection. We also had compote (fresh juice) and other drinks. The total bill was 200GEl ($74.65USD)

Mutsha-mutsha from Maisis Ezo მაისის ეზო in Kutaisi Geogria

shqmeruli from Maisis Ezo მაისის ეზო in Kutaisi Georgia

Mutsha-mutsha

Shqmeruli

Chashushuli from from Maisis Ezo მაისის ეზო in Kutaisi Georgia

the interior dinning room of Maisis Ezo მაისის ეზო in Kutaisi Georgia

Chashushuli

Bikentia's Kebabery ბიკენტიას საქაბაბე: We came her twice, once on our hike, and once with Don's parents. Both times it was packed! This is a traditional ground beef kebab covered in a spicy tomato sauce served with bread, onion and parsley. For a drink you can choose between a Georgian lemonade (soda) or a draft beer. That's it, that's the menu, simple but delicious. They do one thing and they do it to perfection. The kebab is perfectly cooked to be tender and moist and the tomato sauce is tangy and slightly sweet with a hint of spice. The front of the house is traditional standing tables, as this was once a popular workers' lunch, but tucked away in the back are two regular tables if you need to get off your feet. You order at the counter and pay in cash. I highly recommend it for a quick bite!

table in the back of Bikentia's Kebabery ბიკენტიას საქაბაბე in Kutaisi Georgia

beef kebaba and lemonade from Bikentia's Kebabery ბიკენტიას საქაბაბე in Kutaisi Georgia

Historic landmarks in Kutaisi, Georgia

Kutaisi State Historical Museum ქუთაისის ისტორიული მუზეუმი: This is a small but well put together museum with history and artifacts from all around Georgia. There are exhibits from the 9th century to late medieval time. The large displays were translated into English, but some of the smaller descriptions were not so we used Google translate. I would recommend setting a little time aside for this museum, especially if you haven't done one in Georgia yet. Tickets are 5 GEL PP ($1.86USD)

medieval manuscript from Kutaisi State Historical Museum in Kutiaisi Georgia

exhibits at Kutaisi State Historical Museum in Kutiaisi Georgia

Bagrati Cathedral ბაგრატის ტაძარი: This 11th century cathedral is a masterpiece of medieval architecture. It had beautiful mosaics and wall paintings throughout as well as a set of saint's bones on display. The cathedral suffered damage throughout the centuries, but was restored to its current condition today from the 1950's to 2012. Unfortunately, due to the renovations UNESCO removed it from its list of World Heritage sites. Don't let this discourage you from going! This is still a must-see site while you are in Kutaisi and I found the modern restoration mixed with the original architecture to be unique and beautiful. The natural patina of the steel used in the restoration blends with the aging stone blocks, its weight and appearance only adding to the air of immortality this cathedral inspires. Make sure to leave some time to walk around the grounds, my favorite unrestored frescos were on the right side (when looking at the main entrance) on the ceiling of an arch. There is no fee to enter. Please remember to dress appropriately, IE shoulders and knees covered and women should cover their head,

the exteriot of Bagrati Cathedral in Kutaisi Georgia

Frescos on a dome ceiling at Bagrati Cathedral in Kutaisi Georgia

Colchis Fountain კოლხური შადრევანი: This iconic landmark is located in the center of a roundabout in the heart of downtown. It has multiple tiers decorated with large gilded sculptures inspired by the ancient kingdom of Colchis. I recommend going to see the fountain in the day so you can take in all the detail and then again at night to see it lit up. It is a busy intersection so be careful crossing the road.

the gilded sculptures on Colchis Fountain in Kutaisi Georgia

Green Bazaar მწვანე ბაზარი: Don and I first shopped here for our resupply during our hike of the Transcaucasian Trail. The Green Bazaar is the liveliest and most authentic traditional market in Kutaisi. Though there are tourists, this is a real slice of Georgian life. Here you will find fresh seasonal produce, meat and cheese, herbs and spices, traditional Georgian snacks such as fresh churchkhela, and tklapi as well as crafts and souvenirs. We went back with Don's parents and enjoyed some local fruit, snacks and coffee

Terra cotta relief sculpted by Bernard Nebieridze on the exterior wall of the Green Bazaar in

stacked smoked cheese wheels in the Green Bazaar in Kutaisi Georgia

Wall painting “With love-Bebia”: This is an incredible mural painted by Sasha Korban, a Ukrainian street artist. The woman in the painting is a real person named Dali Doghonadze, an 81 year old woman who still bakes khachapuri and even teaches others near Gelati Monastery. This is one of Kutaisi most iconic paintings known for is exquisite detail and use of colors.

with love Bebia Mural in Kutaisi Georgia

Where to stay in Kutaisi, Georgia

Grand Opera Hotel: We all loved this stay, they did an amazing job turning this historic building into a boutique hotel. The rooms were modern and clean and ours had a great view of the old opera house that they were currently renovating. The rooftop restaurant served the most delicious non-alcoholic mojito I've ever had. We also had a delicious dinner there one night when we didn't feel like going out in the rain. Kutaisi has some amazing restaurants so I would recommend making sure you get to those places as well, but if you have time the terrace is a nice place to grab a drink and food. The breakfast buffet, locating in the wonderfully restored brick basement, had many choices that changed daily, including eggs, salad, fruit, vegetables, yogurts, and several bread choices. There seemed to be something for everyone. The location was amazing with almost everything we wanted to see being only a ten min walk away. Overall we really loved this hotel, the location, rooms, food, and staff were all amazing. We would definitely stay here again. Four nights with two superior double rooms including breakfast and a 30 GEl ($11.00 USD) credit per room to their terrace restaurant cost 1,318.56 GEL ($484 USD)

family enjoying drinks at Tares restaurant above the Grand Opera Hotel in Kutaisi Georgia

Breakfast buffet at the Grand Opera Hotel in Kutaisi Georgia

Kutaisi Sunrise: Don and I stayed here for one night during our hike of the TCT and we loved it. The room was big and clean and had everything we needed. It also included a large balcony with tables and chairs. The property also has a shared kitchen and washing machine and is located in the heart of downtown. We would definitely stay here again. One night 61 GEL ($22.00 USD)

Helpful phases in Georgian

You don't have to learn a different language to travel, but learning a few helpful phrases can go a long way with the locals.

Hello (გამარჯობა): Gamarjoba (gah-mahr-joh-bah)

Please (თუ შეიძლება): tu sheidzleba (too sheh-eedz-leh-bah)

Thank you ( მადლობა): Madloba (mah-dloh-bah)

You're welcome (არაფრის): Arapris (ah-rah-pris)

To victory! (Cheers) (გაუმარჯოს!): Gaumarjos (gah-oo-mahr-jos!)

Yes (კი): Ki (kee)

No (არა): Ara (ah-rah)

How to say one though ten in Georgian

One (ერთი): erti (ER-tee)

Two (ორი): ori (OR-ee)

Three (სამი): sami (SAH-mee)

Four (ოთხი): otkhi (OT-khee)

Five (ხუთი): khuti (KHOO-tee)

Six (ექვსი): ekvsi (EK-vsee).

Seven (შვიდი): shvidi (SHVEE-dee)

Eight (რვა): rva (RVA)

Nine (ცხრა): tskhra (TSK-hra)

Ten (ათი): ati (AH-tee)

Helpful Tips for Traveling in Kutaisi, Georgia

Visa: U.S. citizens do not need a visa to travel to Georgia. You can stay for 365 days and after a year you can simply do a “border run” to a neighboring country and go right back for another 365 days

Pedestrian friendly: Not really. You need to pay attention to where you walk in this city. Though it is better then in Tbilisi, sidewalks are often uneven and are not everywhere. It's not uncommon to be walking down a sidewalk that suddenly has a two foot drop with no warning or railing. But it works, though I did trip a lot.

Is the water safe to drink: In some buildings. It's best to ask your host. We did drink the water and ice in every restaurant we went to and did not have any GI issues.

Language: Georgian is the national language which is part of the Kartvelian language family with its own unique script and alphabet system. We found that some of the younger generation in the tourist areas did speak some English, but most of the older generation spoke Russian as a second language. We found outside of the tourist area Russian was more useful than English and Google Translate was a big help as well.

Maps: We used Google maps to get around and it worked well for driving and walking.

Sim cards: We used Magti and it was great and affordable. It has coverage all over Georgia, not just Kutaisi. The prices varied some depending on seasonal sales, but it was about 45GEL ($16.73USD) for 30 days with unlimited data

Public transportation: We didn't use any public transportation here in Kutaisi, everything we wanted to see was in walking distance and we had rented a car in Tbilisi.

Trash cans: There are public trash cans throughout the city.

Bathroom: There isn't an abundance of public restrooms, but most cafes and restaurants have them.

Thank you for taking the time to read our blog, your continued support means the world to us! If you haven't already, please sign up for emails so you can stay up to date. And remember, step out of your comfort zone when you travel; try new foods, stay in traditional accommodations, try and speak the native language, even a few phrases is appreciated, talk with strangers, accept invites into their homes, and leave the tourist districts whenever possible. If you're not embracing their culture and their way of life you're missing the most rewarding experiences traveling has to offer!