Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, is a city where centuries of history blend seamlessly into modern life, creating a place that feels both ancient and new. Nestled in a dramatic valley along the Mtkvari (Kura) River and framed by rolling hills, Tbilisi has long been a crossroads between Europe and Asia and that blend is visible everywhere you look.

Tbilisi was our first home on our international journey and will always hold a special place in our hearts. We stayed in five different neighborhoods, each with its own unique charm and personality. This is a city that reveals itself slowly. As we discovered moving from one part of town to another and returning again after our three month hike through the Caucasus, only to learn how much more we had come to love this city, its people, and the depth of their hospitality. I hope our travels bring us back to Tbilisi so we can keep exploring and learning everything this beautiful, unpolished city has to offer.

Everything you need to know about Tbilisi, Georgia.

A hidden gem in the heart of the Caucasus.

Authentic Georgian restaurants in Tbilisi, Georgia

Mova Masi: We stopped her for lunch and I'm glad we did. We sat outside in the beautiful courtyard. We ordered two cucumber and tomato salads with walnut sauce, two white bean soups, and two mushroom ravioli. Everything was delicious and the service was great. It was almost too much food for the four of us. The total cost was 150 GEL ($55.68USD)

Salobie Bia: This place was like walking into a fun art gallery. Every wall was filled with different pieces of art with unique styles and themes. Make sure you leave time to walk though and look at everything before or after your meal. For dinner we had one order of beats in tkemali (a sauce made with sour plums), two chikhirtma soups, and two duck soups. Everything was absolutely delicious but I think the favorite that night was the chikhirtma. This soup is made with a chicken stock thickened with egg yolk and has vinegar to add a delightful, bright, sharpness. Traditionally it was used for a hangover cure, but now it is eaten any time! Service was amazing and the portions were big. The total bill was 106 GEl ($39.50USD)

Chikhirtma

Duck soup

Chaduna: This small restaurant is hidden in an old building through a cool entryway with only a small sign on a closed door to let you know you are in the right place. Once inside you find a hip restaurant with a small, but delicious menu. We ordered one breakfast of scrambled eggs, three bruschetta's: one carrot, cream, and pumpkin seed; one cherry tomato and pesto; and one champignon, garlic, and cream as well as their modern interpretation of the classic Georgian tomato and cucumber salad. The food was delicious and the service was great. The bruschetta was heavy so you don't need many to be full! The bill came to 99 GEL ($36.89USD)

Cafe Daphna: I couldn't figure out how to make a reservation here so we went around 2pm and hoped for the best. They were still packed, but we only had to wait about 10 minutes for a table. If you can't get a reservation, consider going at an off-time like we did. Unfortunately I lost all my notes on this place, but I remember how delicious everything was. We had a few types of khinkali, fried quail with tashmijabi with berry sauce and lobio (a classic Georgian bean stew). Everything was delicious, service was great, and the atmosphere was perfect.

Ethnographer: A must when you are in town! Delicious food, great service and entertainment. For dinner we had compote (homemade juice, it comes in may seasonal varieties), a bottle of wine, an order of caviar, bread, beans with Racha ham with pickles, tomatoes and cheese salad, grilled vegetables, grilled sturgeon, beef ojakhuri (beef pan-fried with potatoes and herbs), trout with pomegranate sauce, lamb and tomato sauce, and honey cakes and mint tea for dessert. We honestly ordered way too much food for the four of us. Everything about this evening was perfect from the food, to the service, to the performance. Every dish we ordered was cooked and seasoned perfectly, but be aware dishes tend to arrive as they are prepared, not in one large service.

The entertainment started off with traditional Georgian dance and music. It was so much fun to watch the performances so close to our table. It was also so well planned, with breaks in between acts so you didn’t have to choose between eating and watching the show. After the traditional songs and dance, the band came on and sang fun upbeat songs mostly in English (a lot of Abba!), changing the restaurant into a dance club, there was even a congo line! We couldn't have asked for a more perfect evening. You will need to make a reservation, sometimes months in advance if it's the weekend and you want a table where you can see the stage. You can make a reservation through Whatsapp at +995-32-202-20-50. We booked one month in advance and we had to change our date by a day to get the last table near the stage and this was at the end of September!

Trout with pomegranate

Grilled vegetables and grilled sturgeon

Beef ojakhuri

Two delicious bakeries in Tbilisi, Georgia

Entree: This place has some of the most delicious pastries and deserts! It is a little bit pricey compared to other spots nearby, but definitely worth it. Their blueberry tart is my favorite!

Noozly Bakery: We went to this bakery on several occasions and it was always busy with locals. I think their chicken pastry was my favorite, but everything we had was delicious, the staff was friendly and the prices were great. They also have some tables outside. Of course I couldn't find any pictures, it was too good to stop and take photos.

There is no shortage of outstanding bakeries in Tbilisi and here are two we thought stood out.

But don't hesitate to grab a hot, bean filled lobiani or cheesy Megrelian khachapuri from any one of the numerous bakeries you'll pass daily walking around Tbilisi.

Traditional markets and bazaars in Tbilisi, Georgia

Dry Bridge Flea Market: This is an outdoor market right next to Dry Bridge where most of the vendors are set up on the sidewalk and some in the park. There is a little bit of everything from Soviet memorabilia that includes money, passports and posters to knickknacks, pottery and antiques. There is also some amazing art throughout the park. The vendors were all so friendly and happy to help despite language barriers.

Dezerter Bazaar: This is the market we did most of our food shopping, it's open daily from 7am to 5pm and busiest in the morning. It got its name from the soldiers who would sell their military gear when they deserted the Russo-Georgian war in 1920. This is one of the biggest markets we have been to and still my favorite. It took a few visits to actually see it all. There is everything you could possibly need from meat, fish, fruits, vegetables, nuts and cheese. The vendors are happy to help and their prices are fair and honest. Not many of the vendors spoke English, but we did fine with the little Georgian and Russian we knew as well as hand gestures. Even if you don't have a kitchen this is a must see while in Tbilisi.

Didube Bazaar: This was the first bazaar we went to while living in Tbilisi. The first time we went it was a shock to all my systems. The second you leave the Didube metro station you are in the heart of market and it's a little overwhelming! You are instantly hit with the amazing smells of fresh spices and fruit as you are herded along by people trying to get to where they are going. This isn't just a market, it is also a major transportation hub, with many marshrutkas taking passengers all over Georgia. Here you can find anything you need from foods to crafts. I highly recommend finding a pickle vendor!

This market is very tightly packed and the few times we went I didn't see any other tourists. Most people we interacted with did not speak English, but were willing to work with you. Though the first time we went to buy dry beans we didn't do something right and you could tell the vendor was a little frustrated. In the end we got our beans and had a good laugh. While you are there you should go across the street and have a shawarma from Joker Shawarma. It was the best shawarma we had while in Georgia.

Awe-inspiring churches and basilicas in Tbilisi, Georgia

Kashveti St. George Church ქაშვეთის წმ. გიორგი: Located in the heart of downtown Tbilisi on Rustaveli avenue this is a must stop while you are in Tbilisi. Built between 1904-1910 this church was modeled after the Samtavisi Cathedral in the Byzantine style. On a Saturday evening my mother-in-law and I stopped in and heard polyphonic chanting. If you haven't heard polyphonic chanting I highly recommend doing so while in Tbilisi. Even if you are not religious, there is something so moving and deep about this style of worship. Please remember to dress accordingly when visiting these churches, men in pants with no sleeveless shirts and women with their knees and heads covered and no tank tops.

please turn the sound on for the full experience

Anchiskhati Basilica თბილისის ანჩისხატი: Don and I heard polyphonic chanting here on a Sunday morning. This is the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi. It was built in 522-534 by king Dachi of Iberia. On a Sunday morning the small church was packed and filled with the scent of burning candles and incense. I highly recommend coming here to hear the chanting!

please turn the sound on for the full experience

St. George Cathedral of Tbilisi აბანოთუბნის წმ. გიორგის სომხური საყდარი: Located in Old Town this 13th century Armenian church is one of only two operating Armenian churches in Tbilisi. The church is an important example of Georgian, Armenian friendship and cooperation. It is recommended that both men and women do not wear shorts or tank tops.

Tabor Monastery of the Transfiguration თაბორის ფერისცვალების მამათა მონასტერი: This Georgian Orthodox monastery sits atop a hill offering some amazing views of this city. Sitting on the southeastern slope of Mtataminda this monastery offers a view of Tbilisi not often see by tourists.

Metekhi church of the Nativity of the Mother of God მეტეხის ღვთისმშობლის შობის ტაძარი: This Georgian Orthodox church is located on the left bank of the Kura River opposite Old Town. The Church is one of the oldest in Tbilisi, researchers confirmed that the temple was built in 6th century. You should walk the grounds of the church and enjoy its historic architecture as well as the panoramic view of Old Town and the Mtkvari river.

Famous sights in Tbilisi, Georgia

Bridge of Peace მშვიდობის ხიდი: This pedestrian bridge connects Old town with Rike park over the Mtkvari river. The bridge officially opened in May of 2010 after being brought there from Italy in 200 unassembled pieces. It has 10,000 built in LED lights that switch on 90 minutes before sunset. The pulsating lights signal in morse code elements from the periodic table that make up the human body.

Baratashvili Bridge Underpass: We happened upon this unsuspecting underpass while wandering the city. It's filled with amazing street art as well as a lesson in Georgian history, some is even translated into English and we used Google Translate for the rest. It's definitely worth a walk though and if you are lucky like we were you will be serenaded by a talented pianist on the public piano down there!

Meidan Bazaar მეიდან ბაზარი: This 4th century market is located under the city in Old Town! Here you can find antiques, locally made arts and crafts as well as some traditional Georgian food. Even if you're not looking to buy anything it's worth going down to walk through this unique underground market.

Leghvtakhevi Waterfall ლეღვთახევის ჩანჩქერი: Located only a few mins walk from the Sulfur Baths in Old Town this beautiful waterfall is a must see. This hidden gem offers a little bit of peaceful nature in the middle of the city.

Sulfur baths of Old Town: Though we did not go into any of the baths we walked around them more than once. They have a unique brick domes that you can walk around on. The baths themselves are naturally heated and rich in sulfur that you can smell as you get close. If you take the stairs down to the stream you can find a secret tunnel that leads to the Mtkvari river. Inside the tunnel we found some art and history on some of Georgia's historic figures.

National Botanical Garden საქართველოს ეროვნული ბოტანიკური ბაღი: You can walk here from Old Town or I believe you can drive up as well. There are over 4,500 hundred species here and some of its gardens date back to the 1700’s! it was definitely with the climb to meander though the beautiful gardens.

Mother of Georgia ქართლის დედა: This 20 meter aluminum statue holds a sword for enemies and wine for friends. It was built in 1958 to symbolize Georgian hospitality and resilience. It is located near Narkala Fortress

Narikala Fortress ნარიყალის ციხე: Unfortunatly The fortess its self is closed due to renovations, But you can still hike up or take the gondola up to get a closer look.

Photo Credit:

By Mostafameraji - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=73180319

Photo Credit:

By Alexxx1979- Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Photo Credit:

By Dudva - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?curid=77281298

Exploring five Neighborhoods of Tbilisi:

Avlabari, Saburtalo, Marjanishvili, Rustaveli & Varketeli

Avlabari neighborhood

This was our first neighborhood in Tbilisi. We choose to stay here because of the location and price. The apartment we rented was about a 40 minute walk from Old Town, but only about three minutes from a metro station. The neighborhood itself had almost no tourists and it's little rough around the edges, but still very safe. Most of the buildings are built in the Soviet style and have seen better days, but that adds to its charm. Avlabari is one of the oldest districts in Tbilisi and sits on the left bank (east side) of the Mtkvari river. Don't let the rough exteriors of the building fool you, this is a wonderful neighborhood filled with great people. Though I will say if you are looking to stay in a neighborhood with more western or tourist amenities, this place may not be for you. When we first got there we found the decay to be a bit jarring though after a few days we started to love it. There are not any large western style grocery stores around, but plenty of smaller chain grocery stores and butcher that have everything you need. There are also many delicious restaurants and bakeries very close by. We stayed at Cozy apartment with a balcony for 15 days and it cost us 765 GEL ($280 USD). This is a fully furnished studio apartment with a kitchen, washing machine and balcony. There was a queen size bed and a pullout couch. I really liked this apartment, the owner was very nice and it was clean with good internet and AC. The building and neighborhood were a little rough looking (but really safe) and though we did see a hypodermic needle outside we never had any problems here. I would definitely stay here again as it is a great little apartment and was relatively close to Old Town and a lot of other sites.

Saburtalo Neighborhood

I loved this neighborhood! This was our second apartment where we stayed after our hike. The neighborhood has fewer tourists than others but is only a 30 minute subway ride from the heart of downtown Tbilisi. There is a mix of old Soviet buildings connected with sky bridges and new apartment complexes. The newer complexes seemed to be filled with families, students and expats. This is the neighborhood I would want to live in if we ever move to Tbilisi. We stayed in one of the newer complexes we rented from Air B&B called Scandinavian Elegance & Georgian Hospitality. We stayed for 18 days and that cost $462.60 USD. This was a one bedroom modern apartment with a full kitchen, washing machine and balcony. Within the apartment complex there are several stores and its only a few minute walk to a large grocery store, numerous street vendors as well as the metro to take you anywhere you need to go. This isn't the neighborhood I would recommend if you only have a few days or a week to see Tbilisi as it is about 30-40 minutes by subway to the heart of downtown. But if you are looking to stay a little longer and get out of the tourist district and the hustle and bustle of downtown then this district is perfect.

Marjanishvili neighborhood

We only stayed here for one night while waiting for family to meet us in Tbilisi, so we were already familiar with the area. This is a great neighborhood to stay in. It is close to most of the attractions, yet you are still immersed in Georgian culture and historic architecture. The neighborhood has tons of delicious cafes, bakeries and restaurants. We stayed at Guesthouse on Benashvili. This is a small studio with a full kitchen and bathroom as well as a washing machine. The owners were really nice and there is a shaded outdoor area to sit right outside the apartment. For one night we spent 50GEl ($18USD)

Rustaveli neighborhood

This is Tbilisi's main artery, connecting Old Town to the new, growing districts in the northwest. This is where you will find the museums, opera theater, parliament, embassies, and one of our favorite restaurants, Salobie bia. While there is still plenty of Georgian charm here, Rustaveli is a more modern neighborhood. This is the perfect place if you want more modern amenities and to be close to most of the big attractions.

Here we stayed in an apartment in the large buildings directly behind the parliament building (3-5/17-9 9 Aprili St,. Tbilisi Georgia). We rented this apartment from Booking.com, but the listing has now been taken down. I'm sure there are plenty of good rentals within this building, but this was not one of them. We rented from a guy named Keti and I will post a picture so you can avoid this apartment, though it is hard to see the damage in the picture. The picture posted online must be many years old as every surface in this apartment had significant damage. Every piece of furniture had chucks missing out of it, the walls were dirty and full of marks, wallpaper was peeling, every cabinet had damaged, the couches were heavily stained and the blankets they put over it to hide it were ripped and lots of trim was missing throughout. And that's just the cosmetics! Our shower leaked terribly, one bathroom sink only had cold water and the AC in one bedroom didn't work. We did contact the owner about these problems and he sent a very nice repairman and he was able to restore the hot water to the bathroom sink and he fixed the leaking shower, but later that same night it started leaking again. I was so embarrassed about the condition of this apartment. I spent about 8 hours cleaning and repairing it as my in-laws were joining us there the next day. I scrubbed all the walls, glued the wallpaper and took a sharpie to the black furniture to hide the damage (you could see they had done that at some point too.) This apartment was over a hundred dollars a night, I should not have had to do this. We contacted Booking.com, but the listening had already been removed (I'm assuming from other complaints) so there was not much else they could do.

Varketili neighborhood

We stayed here for two nights before our flight. This neighborhood is a little out of the way, but a great place if you are looking to get away from touristy neighborhoods or have an early flight. There is a mix of modern and traditional buildings with a local vibe. This would be a great place if you were looking to live in Tbilisi as it is affordable and has lots of public transportation. We stayed at Apartment 16 which is a large one bedroom apartment with a full kitchen, bathroom and washing machine. We spent 164GEL ($61USD) for two nights

I forgot to take pictures of this apartment, but this is Don laying on the floor there.

Helpful phases in Georgian

You don't have to learn a different language to travel, but learning a few helpful phrases can go a long way with the locals.

Hello (გამარჯობა): Gamarjoba (gah-mahr-joh-bah

Please (თუ შეიძლება): tu sheidzleba (too sheh-eedz-leh-bah)

Thank you ( მადლობა): Madloba (mah-dloh-bah)

You're welcome (არაფრის): Arapris (ah-rah-pris)

To victory! (Cheers) (გაუმარჯოს!): Gaumarjos (gah-oo-mahr-jos!)

Yes (კი): Ki (kee)

No (არა): Ara (ah-rah)

How to say one though ten in Georgian

One (ერთი): erti (ER-tee)

Two (ორი): ori (OR-ee)

Three (სამი): sami (SAH-mee)

Four (ოთხი): otkhi (OT-khee)

Five (ხუთი): khuti (KHOO-tee)

Six (ექვსი): ekvsi (EK-vsee).

Seven (შვიდი): shvidi (SHVEE-dee)

Eight (რვა): rva (RVA)

Nine (ცხრა): tskhra (TSK-hra)

Ten (ათი): ati (AH-tee)

Visa: U.S. citizens do not need a visa to travel to Georgia. You can stay for 365 and after a year you can simply do a “border run” to a neighboring country and go right back for another 365 days

Pedestrian friendly: Not really. You need to pay attention to where you walk in this city. Sidewalks are often uneven and are not everywhere. It's not uncommon to be walking down a sidewalk that suddenly has a two foot drop with no warning or railing. But it works, though I did trip a lot.

Is the water safe to drink: In some buildings. It's best to ask your host, though we drink water from all the rentals and any restaurant we went to.

Language: Georgian is the national language which is part of the Kartvelian language family with its own unique scripts and alphabet system. We found that some of the younger generation in the tourist areas did speak some English, most of the older generation spoke Russian as a second language. We found outside of the tourist area Russian was more useful than English and Google Translate was a big help as well.

Maps: We used Google maps to get around and it worked well from walking, driving and public transportation.

Sim cards: We used Magti and it was great and affordable. It has covers all over Georgia, not just Tbilisi. The prices varied some depending on sales but it was about 45GEL ($16.73USD) for 30 days with unlimited data

Public transportation: The buses and subways here were great and affordable. You can use your Credit Card to tap in and out of the station or buy a transit card from the help desk at the subway station. If you have never road on a Soviet train before you are in for a treat. They are load and fast, you definitely want to hold one to something.

Trash cans: There are public trash cans throughout the city.

Bathroom: There isn't an abundance of public restrooms, but most cafes and restaurants have them and there is a paid one in the mall.

Helpful Tips for your trip to Tbilisi, Georgia

Thank you for taking the time to read our blog, your continued support means the world to us! If you haven't already, please sign up for emails so you can stay up to date. And remember, step out of your comfort zone when you travel; try new foods, stay in traditional accommodations, try and speak the native language, even a few phrases is appreciated, talk with strangers, accept invites into their homes, and leave the tourist districts whenever possible. If you're not embracing their culture and their way of life you're missing the most rewarding experiences traveling has to offer!

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