Backpacking Uzbekistan: The Agalyk Loop, Samarkand
Backpack Uzbekistan's remote Agalyk Mountains. This 22-mile route guide features waterfalls, Kemquton Peak, and hidden alpine rock gardens near Samarkand.
HIKING BLOGBACKPACKING IN ASIA
The Origins of “The Agalyk Loop”
If visiting the Silk Road sites and ancient madrasas of Samarkand isn’t enough and you’re hungry for something just a little more adventurous then you’re in good company here at Traveling Moose and Bugs.
On this page you'll find a ground-truthed and proven wilderness backpacking route through some incredible and remote mountains just outside Samarkand.
I've made the bulk of the information freely available but I've also created a custom GPX file containing GPS routes and over 30 waypoints including navigational markers, water sources, campsites, and more.
PURCHASE THE NAVIGATION PACKAGE
This would serve a serious hiker well and simplify your planning. The small cost helps cover the operational cost of this website. Thanks and I hope you find this helpful.
Undiscovered Uzbekistan
Backpacking near Samarkand: The Agalyk Loop
The Sherdar Madrassa, located in the impressive Registan complex in Samarkand.
While spending a month in Samarkand I found myself gazing south at the mountains and wondering what was out there. Were there trails? Water? Undiscovered beauty? What secrets were to be found in those distant dry hills?
Me pointing at the mysterious mountains to the south while on a run through the abandoned 2500 year old ruins of Afrasiyab.
So we asked around town, some local clerks at a nearby store, a taxi driver, a guide offering trips to other mountains in Uzbekistan. And nobody knew anything. Contrary to what you might think, this only made me more interested. I looked at Google, my topo maps, and satellite images. Like specters in the darkness, pins materialized slowly on Google Maps when I zoomed in on the beige void of the “Samarqand Region” southwest of the town of Agalyk. “Vodopad Dev sharshara” appeared, a strange transliteration of the Russian водопад, meaning “waterfall” and the Uzbek word sharshara, also meaning “waterfall.” “Waterfall waterfall” had a handful of reviews over the last several years and a few enticing photos. I started to believe there may be some trails after all.
With my trusted Gaia GPS app, I plotted a route beginning near Agalyk. I followed a few roads and what the map legend defined as 'Unmaintained Trail.' Because these paths were too faint to be seen on satellite images, we knew the only way to confirm their existence was old-fashioned boots on the ground.
Taking shelter in Samarkand at the Registan during an intense thunderstorm.
We picked a date, and then picked another when a huge summer storm rolled through with heavy lightning and torrential rain. Finally, our window arrived and we took a short thirty-minute taxi ride south through the town of Agalyk until the road became dirt, grew narrower, and the lack of a shoulder between us and a short but steep dropoff made our taxi driver too nervous to continue.
We grabbed our bags, pointed ourselves towards the sun and began walking…
A Brief Route Overview
Time: 2-4 Days
Length: 22 miles (35km)
Elevation Change: +4,976ft, -4,976ft (1524m, -1524m)
This short 2-4 day route through the unexplored Agalyk Range just south of Samarkand, Uzbekistan became one of my favorite hikes in Central Asia. There is a complete lack of tourist infrastructure here, making this trek feel untouched, remote and incredibly authentic. The icing on this arid desert mountain route is the abundance of clear, high-quality flowing water. That’s right, no massive water carriers or complicated logistics; these mountains were full of small lush valleys and numerous springs.
Starting near the small village of Agalyk, the route uses a dirt road to climb through the foothills before following a faint trail along a beautiful mountain stream. From here you’ll climb steeply to a surprising rock garden on the eastern shoulder of 7,200-foot (2200m) Kemquton and explore a whole different side of Uzbekistan, known only to a few local shepherds.
Even traveling on foot, the transition from rolling, grassy foothills to rock-walled gorges, verdant springs, and granitic boulder gardens is abrupt and dynamic, making both the geography and geology stimulating.
A local shepherd, Farrux, perched on a rock with a commanding view of Samarkand.
You may even get a chance to meet a local shepherd, like friendly Farrux, who spends his summers with his herd in a camp located near tiny rock-bound Kul-Bobo (ko’l means lake in Uzbek and is very similar in Tajik and Kyrgyz).
The Agalyk Range is a small subrange within the larger Zarafshan Range. It’s composed of an interesting mix of limestone, granite and shale. This particular hike showcases a lot of heavily weathered feldspar-embedded granite. These smooth, bulbous granitic features rise from green meadows shaping the landscape and give the mountains an almost alien, other-worldly aurora.
Who is this hike for?
Hike Difficulty Rating: 2.1 / 5 (Moderate)
(Scale: 1 = Easiest, 5 = Hardest)
Trailhead Accessibility: 1/5 — Starting the hike is incredibly straightforward. The Agalyk Mountain range is just a short 12 mile (19km) trip from the center of Samarkand, meaning you can easily catch a local taxi or marshrutka (the stop is included with the map set) directly to the dirt road where the route begins.
Route Navigation: 3/5 — Other than the initial dirt roads, the trails out here are informal, unmarked, and often faint or inconsistent. It isn't overwhelmingly challenging, but you absolutely need to be comfortable navigating offline (that means having offline maps!!) and making smart route choices when the path you are following inevitably disappears.
Terrain & Technicality: 2/5 — There are a few brief, moderately steep sections with loose footing, but if you navigate correctly, there is nothing technically demanding on this route. It is a very manageable trek through the foothills and interesting rock-strewn mountains.
Water: 2.5/5 — We almost gave this a 2, but the semi-arid environment and the potential seasonality of some sources bump it up a half-point. That said, we were incredibly impressed with the quality and accessibility of the water out here. You'll encounter plenty of small, crystal-clear mountain streams, though you should still treat it due to the livestock grazing throughout the area.
The Moose and Bugs Verdict: This route is a fantastic, moderate adventure for hikers looking to trade the typical tourist monuments of Samarkand for an unmapped, rugged experience. While you won't need advanced technical climbing skills, the faint trails require a solid sense of direction and off-trail comfort. The reward is a lush, off-the-beaten-path side of Uzbekistan that very few travelers ever get to see.
What Season is the best hiking?
We hiked in late June 2026 and found the weather conditions to be pretty ideal (after waiting out some severe thunderstorms) but a little on the warm side. I think the absolute prime might be in April and May, when the hills are at their greenest and the wild almonds trees are blooming.
Why trust Moose and Bugs with your next Backpacking Route?
I don’t want to seem arrogant or overconfident—and please be sure to always use your own judgment and experience to evaluate ALL decisions in the backcountry, including whether or not you should even be there—but Samantha and I have over a decade of remote and challenging backpacking experience accumulated all over the world.
In 2019, we hiked our first long trail: the rugged and unfinished 1,200-mile (1930km) Pacific Northwest Trail from Glacier National Park in Montana to the Olympic Coast on the Pacific Ocean in Washington State. After completing that hike—crossing 7 distinct mountain ranges with over 205,000 feet (62,500m) of elevation gain, often on abandoned or nonexistent trails—we were hooked!
We followed this with remote off-trail hikes across the American Southwest, like the unforgettable Hayduke, and more recently, the 1,000-mile (1600km) Transcaucasian Trail from the Iranian border in Armenia to the Black Sea in Georgia. Last winter, we added to our repertoire of experience with a wild and dangerous hike in Taiwan through the Central Mountain Range, and we created the first-ever backpacking route for Charyn Canyon in beautiful Kazakhstan.
If you need more evidence, just look at our other documented hikes—and this is still only a portion of what we’ve done!
What Wildlife is there in the Agalyk Mountains?
The Agalyk Mountains are home to a surprising variety of native wildlife in addition to the adundent domestic sheep and goats.
A particularly large camel spider we ran into on day one.
If you're the same kind of outdoor enthusiasts that Bugs and I are, enjoying both the grandiousity of a mountain range, while still being fascinated by the smallest creature, the Agalyk's wil keep you entertained.
From the startling, but surprisingly docile and well-behaved three inch (8cm) camel spider pictured above, to swimming dice snakes, and fragrant asafetida plants, the flora and fauna here add yet another layer to the experience.
Check out the wildlife chart below to see what else you might see! (click the thumbnails for larger images)
Getting to the Trailhead
Private Taxi (about 30 minutes from the center of Samarkand)
Marshrutka #256 will take you to Agalyk and can be found on the south side of this roundabout.
The schedule is hard to find but they run pretty frequently throughout the day. You may also find a bus near the Siyob Bazaar but this is unconfirmed.
Another advantage to this route is its ease of access. The town of Agalyk is only about 12 miles (19km) from the center of Samarkand and is easily reachable by a local marshrutka, the classic Central Asian version of a bus, or taxi (I recommend the Yandex taxi app for the best prices and ease of use).
If you're taxi driver doesn't mind the dirt road you may even be able to eliminate the few kilometers of the hike.
Check out the map for the "trailhead" location and the route to the village of Agalyk.
Packing List & Essential Gear
Before you go make sure you've got everything you need. Always remember the essentials with our Interactive Gear Checklist and if you want to know more about what we use to make these adventurous a success check out our full gear reviews.
Section 2: Rock Gardens and Waterfalls
Distance / Elevation: 6.7 miles (11km) / +800ft (245m) -3,035ft (-925m)
The Experience: This section begins at the top of the climb east of Kemquton Peak and traverses around the north side of the summit through some very interesting granitic prominences—most notably the entire summit block of Kemquton itself. This peak looks like it could make for a fun and scenic scramble, although we didn’t attempt it ourselves (this time…).
There are many flowing springs early on this route and some very inviting “mini-valleys” that are so vibrantly green they look fake. While high on the ridge, hikers (with the requisite experience) could even venture further to nearby named passes like Mishazor and Sangtuda utilizing this route and descend any number of ways.
This route leaves the ridge down a small gully before reaching a more frequently traveled valley, ultimately intersecting the route to Devsharshara Falls, probably the most popular hiking destination in the Agalyks. After visiting the falls, which is a great place to cool off if visiting in the hotter months, venture a little further up this valley to a pleasant confluence of two streams. One of these is crystal clear and ideal for drinking (after filtering), making it a nice place to spend the night.
From the flat, campable area at the top of the final climb from Sarchashma Spring, head south about 200 yards (180m) to find a natural ramp leading west up through the rocks.
Weave your way west for about 0.5 miles (800m) through the scenic, grassy spaces between the bulbous granite boulders that look as if they fell from the sky (they didn’t; they’re the result of a geological uplift, but they are very heavily weathered).
The large summit block of Kemquton Peak will force you to the north until you can contour around its base. Take advantage of where you are and scramble up to the viewpoint on Kemquton’s northern flank (you’ll see the blue marker on the rock above). Or, if you’re feeling more adventurous, I believe the scramble to the top is relatively straightforward, but we didn’t attempt it ourselves.
From just below the viewpoint on Kemquton, descend 80 vertical feet (25m) to pick up an obvious livestock trail. Turn west and contour around the bowl, crossing two flowing springs and a very inviting “mini-valley” that could be worth the short descent to visit. In about 0.4 miles (650m) from the point you turned west, you’ll bend to the south.
Now head south for about 0.5 miles (800m), initially following the natural direction of the rock fins. Climb to the top of a small knoll near a small, collapsed livestock corral (only a few posts remain).
From this vantage point, you can see the saddle about 1.1 miles (1.8km) to the south that we are aiming for.
Follow the ridge south for 1.1 miles (1.8km), descending 800 feet (245m) until you reach the grassy saddle. Pick the path of least resistance and follow sheep paths when viable.
From the saddle, you’ll descend the obvious gully to the west. We could not locate a footpath at the beginning of the descent, but you should tend to favor the north side of the drainage while staying relatively close to the bottom.
0.8 miles (1.3km) from the saddle, a good trail appears on the north side of the drainage.
Follow this trail along the creek for 2.7 miles (4.3km) to the confluence with another stream. You’ll pass two small shepherd’s huts on the opposite side of the creek and a few nice areas to camp.
At the confluence, cross the creek and head upstream (west) along the obvious trail following the newly intersected creek, crossing it soon after.
0.3 miles from the confluence, you’ll reach secluded Devsharshara Falls, hidden in a small, shady gorge. This is a great place to take a break or a natural shower in the falls (the water is a little too silty to filter, unless you’re really in need).
At the falls, you can climb directly out of the gorge up a short but steep and loose dirt path on the north side of the canyon.
After climbing about 40 vertical feet (12m), you’ll reach a well-established trail. Follow the trail upstream for about another 0.5 miles (800m) to reach another confluence with a small side stream.
At the confluence, there is camping along both creeks, and one of the streams is nice and clear. There may be a little trash present in this area, but please be sure to practice Leave No Trace (LNT) principles yourself. This concludes Section 2.
Section 2 Photo Gallery
Section 3: A Scenic Valley
Distance / Elevation: 7.5 miles (12km) (assuming you walk to the bus stand) / +300ft (+90m) -1800ft (-550m)
The Experience: This section has easy-to-follow tread the whole way and travels along the Oqdaryo River for several miles in a beautiful valley, with Kemquton Peak over your right shoulder rising nearly 3,000 feet (900m). You’ll also pass by several seasonally inhabited homes, and don’t be surprised if you’re invited in for tea, a snack, or a little vodka. (If you’re not familiar, brushing your neck with the back of your fingers is a universal gesture here that is an unspoken invite for a drink of the harder variety.)
You’ll eventually cross an idyllic little stream featuring trout-stocked pools near a mulberry orchard. Here there are a few small spots to camp before you join a dirt road that sees little to no traffic.
Finally, you’ll retrace your footsteps from Section 1 and walk back into Agalyk the same way you left. There you can catch a very cheap “marshrutka” (shared bus/taxi) back to Samarkand or hail a taxi.
Leave the campsite near the small confluence, heading north along the same trail you arrived on.
In 1.5 miles (2.4km), you’ll join the “main trail” on the west side of the river. Initially, the “trail” is a collection of sheep paths, but it’s very easy to follow.
In about 1 mile (1.6km), you’ll cross the river and soon you’ll begin to climb away from the creek, reaching a small spring in 0.6 miles (1km).
1 mile (1.6km) after the creek crossing, you’ll reach another small stream near a mulberry orchard. There are several small pools stocked with trout (probably someone’s personal fishery? Maybe don’t eat them without talking to someone first…) and some lovely, shaded spots to camp.
0.2 miles from the stream, take the right fork in the trail to climb over a minor ridge. The trail here transitions back into a dirt road, but don’t expect any traffic.
After descending the minor ridge, you’ll join the “main road” here, a more defined dirt road.
From this junction, follow the road for 2 miles (3.2km) as it heads generally north. Turn east at the intersection back towards the village of Agalyk.
Just over 2 miles from this intersection, you’ll reach the marshrutka “bus stand” in the village of Agalyk. From here you can jump on the local minivan bus 256 to get back to Samarkand (8,000 som/person 2026) or hail a taxi. ENJOY!
Section 3 Photo Gallery
Interested in other experiences in Samarkand?
If you're looking for other slightly more convenient ways to experience Samarkand and Uzbekistan check out these tour offered through Viator.
Bug's Daily Trail Notes
Get a feel for our day to day experience while exploring the route through Bug's (Samantha's) daily trail journal.
Day One: Making Friends in the Most Unexpected Places
We hiked 5.9 miles today with an elevation change of 3,675 feet of gain and 166 feet of descent.
The first few miles were on a nice dirt road before we hit the actual trail at around mile 3. The trail is unmaintained, so it tends to peter out here and there, but overall it was pretty good, just a little overgrown in spots. The river also dries up for a few hundred feet in one section, but it quickly returns.
We stopped for lunch around mile 4 under a nice shade tree next to the river. Up on the plateau would make a beautiful camping spot, but we decided to hike a little farther.
We had packed about 6 liters of water each and started the climb toward the top. We weren't sure if we would find water again that day, so we wanted to make sure we had enough for the night. There wasn't much of a trail to follow because of all the confusing game trails going in every direction. About halfway up the climb, we discovered there was, in fact, flowing water at Sarchashma Spring, which meant we really didn't need to carry all that water after all. 🙄
We stopped at the spring anyway because it had some great shade trees. We laid on a rock for about an hour and took a nap. It was wonderful. There was also an amazing view of the city from there.
After the spring, we found a great trail that took us all the way to the top. Once we reached the top, we headed toward Kul-Bobo to see if there was any water there. As we got closer, I spotted a shepherd's camp, and then we heard a dog, so we decided to turn around. The dog was pretty vocal, but it never came after us. It just barked and kept an eye on us.
We ended up meeting the shepherd anyway!
We saw him standing on the highest peak, and I honestly thought I was seeing things. From a distance, he looked like an American cowboy, with what looked like a duster jacket blowing in the wind. When he came down to meet us, I realized he was actually wearing a more traditional purple Uzbek jacket. With his hiking stick and the way he moved so effortlessly through the rugged terrain, he looked more like a wizard. There was something almost magical about watching him move through the mountains.
His name is Farrux, and he's 27 years old. We sat with him for over an hour and talked through Google Translate, when the translator would actually cooperate. 😂 He invited us to sleep in his home, but we explained that we wanted to sleep outside under the stars.
Eventually, we parted ways and told him we would stop by again in the morning.
While we were cooking dinner, he came by again to see our camping setup. He was shocked that we were cowboy camping (sleeping on the ground without a tent). I guess sleeping outside with nothing but the stars overhead isn't exactly how most people would choose to spend the night!
We ended up just hanging out and talking until it got dark.
It was a pretty amazing experience, and definitely not how I expected our first day on the trail to end. We came into the mountains expecting beautiful scenery and a good hike, but instead we ended up making a new friend in one of the most unexpected places.
Day Two: Slow Days Are My Favorite
We hiked 7.44 miles today with an elevation change of 852 feet of gain and 3,053 feet of descent.
By the time we woke up and got everything packed, Farrux was already gone for the day. We honestly figured that would happen, as I'm sure shepherd life starts pretty early.
I forgot to mention yesterday that we had a dog follow us from the village if Agalyk where we were dropped off. We tried to shoo him away, but he insisted on following us. At lunch, we didn't give him any of our food, hoping that if we didn't feed him, he would eventually go home. But he made it pretty clear that he was sticking with us.
Honestly, he was a great companion and a very capable dog. I've been really impressed with his abilities. We gave him some sausage at dinner and some cheese and sausage for lunch. Tomorrow we'll walk through the same neighborhood where we started, so we're hoping we can return him to where we found him.
I've also been really impressed with how quickly he learned. It only took telling him "no" one time when he got too close to our food. Now, whenever we eat, he stays a few feet away without us having to say anything. He also doesn't bark at other animals or people, which was a problem we've had with another dog that followed us on a different hike.
He definitely won my heart, and I honestly wish we could keep him. Judging by how healthy and well cared for he looked I'm sure he has a home in town. Or maybe he's just one of those mountain dogs who knows how to take care of himself.
The "trail" today was pretty easy, although a lot of it was really just connecting animal paths. It was more beautiful and peaceful out here than I could have imagined. The entire mountain range looks incredibly hikeable, with plenty of water and lots of places to camp.
As I write this, we're laying under some trees near the river, and there isn't a person in sight. It's incredibly peaceful.
After we ate lunch, we ran into two more shepherds. The first was just a guy laying under a tree while his cows grazed nearby. As soon as he saw us, he adjusted the mat he was laying on and invited us to sit with him. Unfortunately, we had taken a really long lunch ourselves, so we had to decline.
The next shepherd was a father and son who were inside their home. Their dog saw us first, and the father and son quickly came outside to quiet the dog.
Unfortunately, two more dogs came running out and chased our dog away. There wasn't anything we could do. We tried looking for him and calling him after we got past the camp, but he was nowhere in sight.
Thankfully, he's a very capable dog, and I have no doubt he'll find his way back on his own. I just wish he could have stayed with us. I was really enjoying his company.
There was a pretty good trail for the rest of the day. We decided to head toward Devsharshara Waterfall, and I'm so glad we did! It was absolutely beautiful and a great place to cool off and splash around in the water.
After the waterfall, we decided to continue farther up the valley and look for somewhere to camp. We found a beautiful spot between two rivers that was obviously a favorite among the locals, judging by the number of campfire rings scattered around.
It's hard not to be a little sad that we don't have more days to spend back here. You could definitely put together a larger loop, and the area is absolutely gorgeous.
This really isn't what I expected when I first thought about hiking outside Samarkand in what I imagined would be a desert landscape. Instead, we've found green valleys, flowing rivers, waterfalls, mountain trails, and some of the most peaceful camping spots we've come across.
Day Three: Uzbek Hospitality Is Amazing
We hiked 8.4 miles today with an elevation change of 235 feet of gain and 1,774 feet of descent.
I woke up around 5:30 this morning because a bunch of non-biting flies had started landing on us. We didn't experience any bugs while we were up high, but there were a ton of them around the river in the morning before the sun reached the area. Thankfully, there weren't any mosquitoes.
I'm actually glad the flies woke us up early because around 5:45, a kid who looked to be about 13 years old rode his horse right up to about two feet from where we were sleeping. 😂 I'm not sure what he thought when he suddenly found two strangers sleeping under the stars, but he was very excited to see us. He invited us back to his place for some coffee, which was incredibly sweet. Unfortunately, we had no idea where his place was, so we couldn't take him up on the offer.
The rest of the day was spent on a pretty nice trail, and I'm still amazed by how much flowing water there is here and how incredibly green everything is. I really wasn't expecting this landscape when we started this hike.
We passed several more shepherds' camps, and I'm still in awe of how well-behaved the dogs are. They bark when they see us, but they aren't aggressive and never chase after us. After our experience with the dog that followed us on the first couple of days, I've really started paying attention to the shepherd dogs, and they are impressive.
The closer we got to the road, the nicer the camps seemed to get. We passed another shepherd walking back toward his home, and he invited us over as well. I would have loved to stop, but unfortunately, his home was about a mile back and the sun had already cooked me. At that point, all I wanted was to get back to town.
We had originally planned on calling a taxi, but our cell reception wasn't very good. We kept walking, hoping we'd eventually get a better signal, and ended up walking all the way to the bus stop.
Luckily, we were able to catch the #256 marshrutka back into town. The ride cost 16,000 UZS for both of us, which was only about $1.33 USD. It dropped us off on the south edge of town, so after grabbing a quick bite to eat, we called a taxi for the rest of the way. That ride came to 19,000 UZS, or about $1.58 USD, including the tip.
It was another great day on the trail, but what really stood out to me was the hospitality. From a teenage boy riding up on horseback to invite us for coffee to shepherds repeatedly inviting us into their homes, everyone we've encountered has been incredibly welcoming. Uzbek hospitality has definitely made an impression on us.
Final Thoughts
We had almost no local information before beginning this hike and it blew my mind. The super-weathered, rounded, globular granite protrusions were delightful to hike through and the abundant, quality water was a real surprise. And like I said before, the absolute lack of tourist infrastructure here was amazing. No one knows you’re coming, and no one is expecting you. Making all the interactions 100 percent authentic and genuine! And the route’s proximity to Samarkand means that the lack of development isn’t an obstacle, you’re only a short taxi or “bus” ride away.
Once on the ridge there are options for a summit scramble, further exploration, and multiple descent routes down into different remote villages. This hike, and the people we met on it, definitely left a lasting impression and I remember it as one of the highlights of our time in Central Asia.
Don’t miss this chance to have an unforgettable mountain experience in this one-of-a-kind destination in Undiscovered Uzbekistan. Happy Hiking Everyone!
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Meet the Author
Hello, I'm Don, a.k.a. Moose. I have a penchant for history, especially ancient Greece and Amir Timur's rule in Central Asia. I'm also an adventurous eater with a love for global street food (naem/แหนม, anyone? Thai-style raw fermented pork is a personal favorite).
But my true passion is rugged, long-distance hiking. The more remote the location and unknown the route, the happier I am. You'll find me most at home wandering the deserts of the American Southwest, or the fringes of Amenia along the Iranian border, or traversing a steep snowfield in the Washington Cascades.
I hope I can share my love for adventure with you.
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