Charyn Canyon National Park: The ONLY Backpacking Guide
Complete 50-mile backcountry backpacking guide for Charyn Canyon, Kazakhstan. Route maps, water sources, bus transit from Almaty, and permits.
HIKING BLOGBACKPACKING IN ASIA
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How to camp in the Backcountry of Charyn Canyon National Park in Kazakhstan
Why are we qualified to create this route and why should you trust Moose and Bugs with your backcountry safety?
If you’re new to Traveling Moose and Bugs, you should know we don't just hike the maintained paths. We have over a decade and 4500 miles (7200 km) of remote backpacking experience all around the globe including; a 2025 hike from the Iranian border in Armenia to the Black Sea in Georgia, 800 miles (much of it off-trail) on the incredible Hayduke route across Utah and Arizona, and countless shorter challenging routes like this one in the Central Mountain Range in Taiwan.
Our qualifications are trail-earned and come with years of experience managing long water carriers in the desert and cross-country navigation all around the world; from the tropics to above tree line alpine excursions.
What we ask of you is that you make an accurate assessment of your own skill level, physical fitness, and personal experience. No one can do that for you. Even with a good route and good notes, many things can and do go wrong in the remote backcountry. From illness, to injury, to just plain getting lost, you must be able to resolve these situations yourself. Accidents here could cost you your life.
Know your abilities, be safe, and have a great time outdoors!
For those of us obsessed with remote and self-reliant backcountry exploration the south side of Charyn Canyon has many kilometers of canyons to wander, dry open grass steppe to cross, hidden springs to locate and fascinating fauna to observe.
As we often discuss at Traveling Moose and Bugs, the best trails aren't the easiest ones. They are the ones that force you to slow down, breathe deeply, and appreciate the raw beauty of the world. Charyn is, without a doubt, the beating heart of eastern Kazakhstan’s desert wilderness.
During our time in Kazakhstan we learned of Charyn Canyon National Park and thought this could be the ideal spring backpacking destination we were looking for. But there was almost no information on how to access the backcountry, hike (outside of Valley of the Castles), or wild camp in this beautiful, stark, and remote desert wilderness. So in traditional Moose and Bug's fashion we took it upon ourselves to explore this area and create a small guide to make it just a little more accessible for fellow adventurous travelers.
What to expect on the "Into the Labyrinth" Route
While this route skips the popular, and impressive "Valley of the Castles", that is by design. The main park entrance and its sites are easily accessible through tour operators and local guides. Our "Into the Labyrinth" route takes you to the less traveled side of the park where you visit three impressive and unique canyons, Moon Canyon, The Canyons of Munara, and Bestamak (Yellow) Canyon.
You'll hike between the yellow mud, striated walls of Moon Canyon and camp in its lush bottom with streams and springs.
After crossing miles of open steppe with only shepherds and camels you'll descend into The Canyons of Munara, rarely visited, but only because of its remoteness. Marvel at its red rock spires and hoodoos and explore until you're satisfied.
Climb out of Munara and find your way to Bestamak Canyon and walk through the sheer walled, narrow meanders until you reach the majestic poplar trees on the banks of the Charyn River.
If this isn't enough, my complete route notes contain an extension that takes you through the ancient Sogdian Ash Grove and down river to the village of Charyn.
Interested yet?
Here you'll find a complete guide describing the transportation logistics, park entry requirements and an overview of the fifty mile (80 km) route we hiked over three days on the remote south side of Charyn Canyon National Park.
When you stand at the rim of Charyn Canyon, or any one of the many intersecting canyons, like Moon or Bestamak or Munara, you’re taking a literal look back in time. Millions of years of erosion carved these labyrinthine canyons leaving behind the otherworldly spires and hoodoos you see today. Geographically, this area is very reminiscent of the terrain in some of the American Southwest, but populated with very different flora and fauna and surrounded by the iconic semi-arid steppe associated with this part of Central Asia.
Following our Charyn Canyon route hikers can expect to see few others, especially if you avoid weekends. While there may be crowds at The Valley of Castles, the south side of the canyon remains the realm of sheepherders, camels and a few 4x4 outfits.
In addition to the detailed notes I'm also offering a groud-truthed GPX track and a set of over 30 waypoints marking critical water sources, navigational aids, and campsites.
PURCHASE THE NAVIGATION PACKAGE.
How did I create this route? Using the 21st century version of the “old fashioned” way. I combined local research with extensive reading of topo maps. I followed faint jeep tracks and canyons on satellite images until I felt I had put together a route that would be both feasible and exciting. I think we succeeded on both counts here, but make sure you spend adequate time exploring the canyons and consider my route extension idea to hit more highlights and for a longer one-way “thru-hike” style itinerary.
*Pictures from left to right- 1) Bugs in her quilt wearing her reliable Petzl headlamp in Moon Canyon 2) Us at the park entrance sign 3) Bugs with a horse skull
*Pictures from top clockwise- 1) Us at the park entrance sign 2) Bugs with a horse skull 3) Bugs in her quilt in a wearing her reliable Petzl headlamp in Moon Canyon
TABLE OF CONTENTS
The Two Sides of Charyn Canyon National Park: The North Side v.s. The South Side
You can divide Charyn Canyon National Park into two areas when discussing options for backcountry exploration; the north side with The Valley of the Castles, accessible from the main park road and the most visited spot in the part with frequent tour buses coming and going, and the south side, with its series of finger-like canyons snaking south to north separated by semi-arid grass step and erosion resistant mud hills before intersecting the main Charyn Canyon.
We chose the south side in our quest for a true wilderness experience and solitude. Many of the canyons are connected with 4x4 tracks that cross the semi-arid steppe, making most of the navigation fairly straight forward with two notable exceptions on our route, the climb out of Moon Canyon and the crossing from The Canyons of Munara into Bestamak Canyon.
*Map roughly illustrating the area to the north (orange) and south (yellow) around Charyn Canyon. The north is home to the popular Valley of Castles hike but the remote southern side makes for a great solitary backpacking experience.
When to visit Charyn Canyon and What season is best for backpacking?
The Climate: A Landscape of Extremes
Backpacking in and around Charyn Canyon requires a deep respect for the elements. The climate is distinctly continental and semi-arid, meaning it doesn’t do anything halfway:
What lives in Charyn Canyon?
An exploration in desert specialists
Another wonderful surprise in Charyn Canyon is the abundance of native wildlife (and another reason to explore the quieter and less visited areas where your odds of a sighting are much higher). We were incredibly surprised that during our four days of backpacking we personally saw every animal on the table I created below!
We didn’t see the rare Sogdian Ash trees as our route didn’t take us that far down river, but don’t worry, I have a longer and even more adventurous route in mind already.
Who is this hike for?
Charyn Canyon is a landscape of extremes. While the famous 3km walk through the "Valley of Castles" is accessible to almost anyone, backpacking the deeper, unmaintained sections of the canyon system is a more serious undertaking.
Hike Difficulty Rating 2.9/5 (moderate-expert hikers)
(Scale: 1 = Easiest, 5 = Hardest)
Trailhead Accessibility: 2.5/5 — Requires a 3-4 hour drive, taxi ride, or bus from Almaty. While the main entrance is paved, reaching remote start points for multi-day treks requires a 4WD vehicle but our route starts right off a paved road making it easy to reach. We took the public bus and walked 10 miles (16km) of paved highway to the 4x4 dirt road leading to Moon Canyon.
Unless you rent your own vehicle there is no direct way back to Almaty. You must hail a taxi or flag down a vehicle and hitchhike at least part of the return trip. There is a convenient bus shelter near a gas station to do this from and be prepared to pay the person who picks you up for the ride, that is the practice in this region. Renting a car would eliminate almost all the navigational complexities.
Route Navigation: 2.5/5 — Beyond the main "Valley of Castles" tourist trail, paths are unmarked, unofficial, and often wash out seasonally. Much of the route we took overlapped with easy to follow 4x4 tracks but you must be comfortable with occasional GPS navigation and off-trail route finding.
Terrain & Technicality: 2.5/5 — Depending on your exact route choice, navigation is relatively straight forward except for one very difficult loose dirt chute climbing out of Moon Canyon but I believe there is a work around on a nearby canyon wall. If you avoid this and accurately navigate between Munara and Bestamak/Yellow Canyon the rest of the route is very straightforward.
Water: 4/5 — This is a harsh, semi-arid environment. Water sources are scarce and seasonal but there are several reliable springs in Moon Canyon. The Charyn River will have water but it is not always accessible and often the steep walls of the canyon itself prevent it. Rely on known side canyons or mapped dirt roads to get you safely to the river. Always “camel up” at water sources and drink your fill while factoring in long, dry stretches between sources. (always filter or treat your water here, see how we filter ours)
The Moose and Bugs Verdict: This route is best suited for moderate-expert backpackers and highly experienced desert hikers.
If you are looking for a casual stroll, stick to the main tourist corridor. If you are looking for total solitude and are equipped for self-supported, desert trekking, the deeper canyon system is a world-class desert hiking location.
How do you get to Charyn Canyon from Almaty? Transit Tips
Getting to Charyn Canyon National Park requires a bit of logistical legwork, but that’s exactly what keeps the crowds away. You have a few options for the journey from Almaty, depending on your budget and how much time you want to spend in transit:
Public Transit/Bus (marshrutka): PRICE- $5.75USD (2790 TENGE) Bus #424 departs daily from Sairan Station in Almaty at 10:00am. Tickets can be purchased at the station or online through the official portal here. If that doesn’t work due to bad translations or credit card incompatibility you can book with our favorite, 12GO.asia, but you will have to pay for the entire ride to Karakol even though you’re deboarding at Charyn!
Private Hire/Driver: We met a nice local guy by the name of Tamerlane, he actually picked us up when we hitchhiked back to Almaty. Tamerlane lives in Almaty and can provide transport and personal tours, and is a great source for local history, both contemporary ad ancient.
Reach Tamerlane on WhatsApp at +7 777-710-5570
Self-Drive: For the best prices use a local car rental service, there are quite a few in Almaty. Expect to pay $60-90USD/day. If you’re a diehard fan of sticking to rental agencies you’re familiar with, there is an AVIS at the airport and you can book through them here but expect much higher rates.
Pro Tips:
If riding the public bus from Almaty alert your driver before departure about your intended destination of Charyn Canyon. "Чарынский каньон" (Charynskiy kan'on) is the name in Russian and should be sufficient for your driver to understand your intention, but if you do not inform him they will not stop there!
Rent a car for maximum convenience but be aware you may be leaving it on the side of the highway or a mysterious dirt road while you’re hiking.
We found hitchhiking in Kazakhstan very comfortable, just remember you’ll pay a similar rate to a shared taxi, it’s seen as a service, not a handout.
*Bugs trying to flag down a ride when leaving Charyn Canyon. It's easier than it looks here...
Park Permits and Entry Fees
Before you head out, you'll need to sort out your entry permissions. Charyn Canyon is a national park, and while it's relatively straightforward, you don't want to get caught without the right paperwork.
Please be a respectful guest and a good steward of these lands and pay the small fees.
Park Entry: The entrance fee is 865 Tenge/person/day as of May 2026 ($1.78USD/person/day). These can be purchased in advance using the kaspi.kz app but the payment can only be made with the Kaspi Gold card (which is hassle to get as a foreigner), so we asked our friendly host to complete our purchase.
Otherwise they need to be purchased at the main park entrance (which we did not pass on our route).
Camping Permits: There is a separate fee of 350 Tenge/tent/day. We could not figure out how to pay this through the kaspi.kz app and instead paid for several extra days to cover the missing fee. Paying at the official park entrance in person would make this simpler.
We ran into a park ranger on our final day and the encounter was very casual and friendly. He wouldn’t even look at our permits when we tried to show them to him, from what we understood in Russian he was mostly concerned if there were any vehicles in the canyon. The ranger seemed pretty entertained by our method of travel (on foot) and we got the distinct impression that there are not too many backpackers here...
What gear do you need to backpack in Charyn Canyon?
Below I've created an interactive packing checklist highlighting the gear needed for this trek. This route doesn't require any specialty gear in addition to an ordinary desert hiking kit, just make sure you have adequate water carrying capacity (I carried about 5 liters and almost ran out one day) and we always recommend an emergency sattelite communication device.
We opted to travel light with clothing layers and skipped rain gear, carrying only wind gear instead due to a stable early summer forecast. But of course check your local conditions before you hike! See all of gear reviews here.
Route Overview: Into the Labyrinth
Route Length- 50 miles (80 km)
Cumulative Elevation- +3328ft (+1015m) / -3726ft (-1560m)
I’m going to break this route up into three sections. In this case they will correlate to the days we hiked but I also believe this to be a practical way to break up the mileage and take advantage of natural water sources.
I've made the notes and some Google Map views of the approximate route publicly available.
Our full map set with our exact GPS track, over 30 additional navigation waypoints, marked water sources, and personal notes are available right here on our website for a small fee. Yes, there is a very small paywall, but this isn't just to make a buck, I believe these places deserves to be respected, both because nature can humble you at any minute and because I think a small contribution will help ensure these notes and GPS tracks are more likely to be seen and used by serious and committed hikers, not somebody who found this on a whim before what was supposed to be Saturday tour of the Valley of Castles. (and of course it helps offset some of the cost of operating this website) Thanks for your support and Happy Trails!
Section 1: Charyn Park Access Road / Hwy. A-351 intersection to Moon Canyon
(quick tip- some maps, like my Gaia GPS topo, designate Hwy A-351 as 05-06 or Hwy 6, maybe an outdated nomenclature.)
Distance/Elevation: 13 miles (21km) / +809ft (247m) -1500ft (457m)
The Experience: Your starting point may vary depending on your method of transit but everyone will probably have the same 3-4 hours of travel time from Almaty to Charyn Canyon National Park. (As usual, we opted for the method that involved the most walking and took the bus which dropped us off at the main park entrance road and I’ll begin the route description from this point. This left 10 miles (16km) of highway walking before reaching the dirt road into Moon Canyon.)
Walk south on Hwy. A-351 from the main park entrance for about 10.2 miles.
After about 6 miles you’ll see the old abandoned highway on your left (east), take this for a more scenic and less trafficked alt for a mile or so.
There’s a small store with water, snacks and samsas immediately before you cross the Charyn River. There are campable sites on both sides of the river near the banks, but I did see some rats on the north shore when getting water.
The highway will bend to the east and in about 1 mile you'll head north on a dirt road towards Moon Canyon.
2 miles after leaving the highway there is a gate marking a wildlife area and preventing vehicle access. There is a trail workaround on the map but we crawled underneath.
We made camp in a small easterly side canyon 0.5 miles after the gate.
There is a flowing spring hidden in the trees on the east side of the canyon 1 mile after the gate.
CLICK THE IMAGES FOR FULL SCREEN PICTURES!
Section 2: Moon Canyon to Bestamak / Yellow Canyon
Distance/Elevation: 16.5 miles (26.5km) (with some route finding) / +932ft (284m) -1615ft (492m)
The Experience: This is the most technically challenging portion of the route. You first must climb out of Moon Canyon and our route took us up an eroding dirt chute that might be a no-go for many hikers. I believe I saw a workaround trail on a nearby canyon wall but this is untested.
Near the end of the this section you must cross from the Canyons of Munara to Bestamak / Yellow Canyon. There is a mountain bikeable path the whole way but we only discovered it in pieces during some failed route discovery after getting cliffed out twice while trying to descend into Bestamak. Close to the Charyn River much of Bestamak Canyon is a slot canyon and its steep and cliffy walls make it tricky to find safe routes in.
Beginning from the small side canyon, continue another 0.6 miles north up the canyon.
At this point there is a high quality clear flowing spring (strong flow May 25, 2026, probably perennial, but during the driest and hottest days of summer I would be cautious about relying on this)
Cross the small spring fed creek and head east into the side canyon
Hiker's Note: This would be my ideal Day 1 camp area if I repeated this route. This side canyon is surprisingly green and lush with small streams and rather idyllic.
Follow a faint track bending to the south for about 0.4 miles before you cross another small flowing creek immediately on your left (east).
Obstacle 1 of 2- Here the faint path climbs a small hill near the canyon's eastern wall and wraps around into a narrow dirt side draw leading to the top of the erosion-resistant mud canyons comprising this area. A short distance up this climb there is a very steep and loose dirt chute that must be climbed. (Good shoes with reliable tread are essential to safely climb here, see what we used.) With two people (experienced scramblers) and passing gear up the chute piece by piece this was manageable, but it could be daunting if unprepared (see photo below).
Hiker's Note: I believe from the bottom of this climb I saw an alternate trail ascending the canyon wall just north of this position (approx. waypoint included with map set purchase). This is untested but could be a less sketchy option.
After reaching the canyon rim you’ll find a view point and an area that may have seasonal yurts (none in May 2026). Head south on the dirt road for 0.3 miles before turning sharply northeast on an intersecting road.
Follow the dirt road / jeep tracks east for 4.4 miles passing several abandoned farmhouses and some still used seasonally (ignore my GPS track here, we wandered off the tracks and it only added distance).
Turn north and follow the main track, winding through colorful hills for about 6.5 miles, being sure to take the fork on the right at mile 6 down into the Canyons of Munara (the left fork goes to a viewpoint, probably a worthy side trip)
Obstacle 2 of 2- After reaching the bottom of the canyon there is a prominent boulder and hopefully visible mountain bike tracks. (Be sure to head north up the canyon towards Charyn Canyon for great hoodoos, spires, and red rock features.)
Hiker's Note: From the rock follow the bike tracks south if possible for an easier route (see our waypoint where we picked up the tracks again). OR head east up the easy slope to the obvious saddle on the north-south ridge and follow the ridge south. DO NOT head east down the gulley from the saddle like we did, it hits an impassable pour over.
Once you’ve found the bike track it's an easy and scenic 0.6 mile descent into Bestamak Canyon.
Upon reaching the jeep track in the bottom of the canyon head north to reach the Charyn River, your water source.
CLICK THE IMAGES FOR FULL SCREEN PICTURES!
Section 3: Bestamak / Yellow Canyon to the Highway
Distance/Elevation: 20.0 miles (32km) / +1587ft (484m) -611ft (186m)
The Experience: This section is very straight forward and follows jeep tracks, dirt roads, and highway. The canyon at the beginning of the section is beautiful and I thoroughly enjoyed crossing the vast open steppe, watching camels graze, gerbils run around, and hungry raptors soaring on the thermals overhead.
Head south on the road climbing out of Bestamak and Yellow Canyon. Starting from the Charyn River you’ll reach the open step in just over 2 miles.
After reaching the steppe take the first fork to the southwest (right). After about 5.5 miles you’ll reconnect with the dirt track you were on the day before.
4.5 miles after reconnecting with your old track turn south on the dirt road to walk back to Hwy. A-351.
From A-351 we retraced our steps for another 4.7 miles and camped on the abandoned portion of the old highway. (Make sure to get off the road, an occasional vehicle still drives this way!)
Across the street from the gas station at the intersection of the old road and new highway is a bus shelter. This is a very convenient place to flag down a ride with some protection from the elements.
Hiker's Note: You could end this route any number of ways, including hiking into the village of Aksai, trying to hitch as soon as you hit the pavement OR my idea for next time: Hiking from Yellow Canyon to Temirlik Canyon, using a vehicle bridge in the bottom to cross the river, rejoining some dirt roads heading north to a bridge across the Charyn River and following trail and jeep tracks northeast to the Sogdian Ash Grove, up the canyon and ultimately to the town of Charyn or Tackapacy (Tasqarasu). This would add another 26.6 miles to the route for a total of about 76 miles and require another one or two nights. I hope to get a chance to hike this variant in the future and if anyone else does please let me know!
CLICK THE IMAGES FOR FULL SCREEN PICTURES!
Daily Trail Notes
Here I've included Bug's (Samantha's) daily notes from our four day hike of this route. It'll help provide a little additional insight into any of the difficulties and challenges that so easily slip ones' mind the second you're "out of the woods." Enjoy!
Hiking Charyn Canyon National Park: A 4-Day Trail Journal
Getting to Charyn Canyon from Almaty
Getting to Charyn Canyon without a car is surprisingly easy and affordable. Our host purchased our park entry tickets through the Kaspi app. The total for two people for three days was 5,190 KZT.
From our apartment in Almaty, we took a Yandex taxi to Sayran Bus Station for 2,000 KZT. We then boarded the bus to Karakol, which departs from Platform 5 at 10:00 a.m. We purchased tickets to Kegen for 2,790 KZT per person. If you're planning to do the same, make sure to tell the driver before boarding that you want to get off at Charyn Canyon.
We bought our tickets two days in advance when the bus was mostly empty, but by departure day every seat was taken. I definitely recommend buying tickets ahead of time or arriving early to purchase them.
The seats were comfortable enough, although the legroom was pretty tight. The person in front of me reclined their seat all the way back, and it was touching my knees, and I'm only 4'10". The bus has air conditioning but no WiFi or toilet.
Around noon, we stopped outside Shelek for a 30-minute break. The toilets cost 100 KZT, and there were several places to buy snacks and drinks.
Day 1
12.87 miles | Elevation: +815 ft / -1,516 ft
The bus drops you off at the main gate of Charyn Canyon National Park. From there, you'll need to walk or hitchhike to the visitor center to buy entry permits.
Although we had already purchased our entry tickets through our host and didn't need to visit the staffed park entrance, we had heard there was a manned booth here near the highway. There is not, if you're purchasing your permits in person you will need to head the 7 miles (each way) down the park road to the main gate. Now we started walking south down the main highway.
Our route followed the highway for nearly 10 miles. While that might not sound exciting, it was actually a lovely walk. The scenery was beautiful, it felt completely safe, and nearly every passing driver smiled and waved. We even spotted a corsac fox, which was an unexpected highlight of the day.
At the bridge viewpoint, there is a small shop selling snacks and water, along with a toilet. A few miles farther down the road, we reached a large locked gate marked "Kegen Animal Sanctuary." There were no "Keep Out" signs, so we ducked underneath and continued along the dirt road.
By evening, we found a beautiful wash and decided to cowboy camp. One of my favorite things about cowboy camping is lying under the stars and watching the bats emerge after sunset. This place had dozens of them, swooping and darting overhead and putting on a surprisingly impressive show before we settled in for the night.
Day 2
16.49 miles | Elevation: +735 ft / -1,417 ft
Today was one of those days that was equal parts fun and stress!
Our only dependable water source came very early in the day, and we knew we wouldn't find more water until evening. The climb out of Moon Canyon included one short obstacle where we had to remove our packs and scramble up some loose dirt. Thankfully, it looked worse than it actually was.
Most of the day was spent on dirt roads, which made for easy walking. In the distance, snow-covered mountains rose above endless open plains that seemed to stretch forever. We only encountered one other person all day, a man on horseback herding his goats.
Wildlife sightings were much more common. We saw several herds of horses and, to our surprise, four camels. Seeing camels while backpacking was definitely a first for us.
The day's real challenge came near the end. We had a short off-trail section, only about half a mile, connecting two canyons. No matter which direction we tried, we kept getting cliffed out. After a long day of hiking and with our water supply getting low, it was frustrating to say the least.
Eventually, we climbed back onto the ridge and spotted what looked like a possible route down. When we reached it, we noticed bike tracks. That was all the encouragement we needed. If bikes could make it through, surely we could too.
Thankfully, we were right. Not long afterward, we reached the road and finally found water. I think Don drank nearly two liters on the spot.
What continues to amaze me about this place is how much life exists here. We saw countless birds, lizards, and grasshoppers throughout the day.
After setting up camp, we had one final wildlife surprise. We spotted a Siberian ibex, which I believe is a pretty rare sighting and was an incredible way to end the day. Tonight, we're cowboy camping again, and I have a feeling I'm going to sleep very well.
Day 3
20.02 miles | Elevation: +1,591 ft / -615 ft
This was our first 20-mile day in quite a while, and my legs definitely noticed. Thankfully, the entire day followed dirt roads with a gentle grade, making the mileage much easier than it could have been.
We saw more camels and horses and even found a group of cows that had apparently moved into an abandoned house. We also finally encountered a park ranger. I immediately pulled out our park tickets to show him we had paid, but he simply waved them away as if he didn't care.
Instead, he wanted to know how far we had hiked, where we had been camping and if there where any vehicles in the canyon.
Now we're settling in for another night of cowboy camping and hoping the weather holds. Which unfortunately it didn’t and we ended up setting up the tent. To our surprise the tent without the insect insert was much bigger and very comfortable.
Day 4
0.5 miles to the highway
Started hitchhiking: 8:20 a.m.
Picked up: 9:15 a.m.
Someone stopped within the first ten minutes, but unfortunately they weren't headed toward Almaty. Our hope was that a marshrutka with two empty seats would pass by.
One thing worth knowing is that hitchhiking in Kazakhstan generally isn't free. Most drivers expect payment, usually around the same amount you would pay for a marshrutka.
Less than an hour after we started waiting, another car pulled over. I told the driver in Russian that we were going to Almaty, and to my surprise, he answered in English. He turned out to be a guide from Almaty and offered to take us all the way back to the city. Normally, a private transfer like this would cost around 60,000 KZT ($124.51 USD), but he agreed to take us for the marshrutka rate of 15,000 KZT ($31.13 USD).
It ended up being one of those wonderful travel experiences you never plan for. We don't often get long rides with someone who speaks English. You can learn a lot through gestures and translation apps, but having a shared language allows for much deeper conversations.
Our driver was incredibly knowledgeable about both Kazakh and world history, and hearing historical events from Kazakhstan's perspective was absolutely fascinating.
After four incredible days of hiking through canyons, open plains, and remote valleys, it felt like the perfect ending to our Charyn Canyon adventure.
Final Thoughts
After years of backpacking, and an intense personal passion for desert exploration I believe Charyn Canyon National Park lived up to our expectations and justified the extra effort it takes to get there, and home again...
While the canyons may not be as extensive as the American Southwest, at times they were equally impressive and home to features reminiscent of some of our personal favorites, like the hoodoos in Bryce Canyon National Park, and the stone-walled narrow meanderings of Capitol Reef National Park, another underappreciated wonder.
In Charyn Canyon National Park we found a unique and wonderful landscape, full of native animals and the always entertaining Bactrian camels. And we were able to explore all of this almost entirely and utterly alone, unlike so many other "wild" places in the 21st century.
For a one-of-a-kind backpacking destination it's worth the visit, consider checking out our full GPS files and navigation waypoints available for purchase and my ideas for a route extension through the Sogdian Ash Grove. Happy Trails Everyone!
-Moose (Don)
Want to visit Charyn Canyon but with a little assistance?
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Meet the Author
Hello, I'm Don, a.k.a. Moose. I have a penchant for history, especially ancient Greece and Amir Timur's rule in Central Asia. I'm also an adventurous eater with a love for global street food (naem/แหนม, anyone? Thai-style raw fermented pork is a personal favorite).
But my true passion is rugged, long-distance hiking. The more remote the location and unknown the route, the happier I am. You'll find me most at home wandering the deserts of the American Southwest, or the fringes of Amenia along the Iranian border, or traversing a steep snowfield in the Washington Cascades.
I hope I can share my love for adventure with you.
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